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  • What is the best way to prepare a concrete floor for painting?
    • The important thing about a floor is that it is clean, dry, and etched. In the last 15 years, diamond grinding has become much more cost effective and therefore popular. We see this as the ideal way to prepare a floor, although grinding marks need to be minimal or they are likely to show in the finish coat. Some contractors still like to acid etch, and we are happy with a floor prepared this way so long as it is obviously etched. If a floor has a release agent of some sort on it, acid washing is unlikely to be adequate.
  • Is a hot, high pressure water blast suitable for the preparation of older uncoated concrete?
    • We see grinding as first choice then acid etching as second choice and water blasting only as a last resort. If water blasting is the only option we recommend the water droplet test to be done once the concrete has dried from water blasting. This test is where a few drops of water are placed on the concrete and if the water soaks into the concrete then the concrete should be fine for coating but if the water droplets bead on the surface of the concrete then the concrete needs to be treated further.
  • What is the difference between V410 and V412?
  • Can V410 or V412 be applied direct to the concrete?
  • How important are the mixing ratios of base (pack A) to hardener (pack B) in E2100 & V410/V412?
  • How should the two packs be mixed?
  • How critical is pot life?
  • How critical or influential is the weather conditions to the curing and performance of this system?
  • What is ‘Theoretical Coverage’ and how important is it?
  • Roller marks – how can they be avoided?
  • With some floor coatings, bubbles appear in the surface. What are they and how are they avoided?